Tuesday, February 18, 2014

This is baby chemise. Let's see how to stitch it.

This is the stitching pattern for the baby chemise. The readymade measurements for the baby chemise follows.

chest = 60 cm, waist = 55 cm, narrow waist = 25 cm, full length = 55 cm
a-b = full length = chest - 5 = 55cm
a-c = narrow waist = (chest/2)-4 = 25 cm
a-d = armhole = (chest/4)-2.5 = 12.5 cm
d-e = chest loose = (chest/4) + 2.5 = 17.5 cm
b-f = hem bottom = (chest/2)+10 = 40 cm
a-i = shoulder = ab/2 = 12.5 cm
a-j = neck breadth = (chest/12) + 1.5 = 6.5 cm

With the help of the above pattern draw the stitching pattern. First fold the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise , next place the stitching pattern on the cloth, mark the edges using marking chalk.

Cut the cloth carefully. You will get two seperate portions , front part and back part. Now join the shoulders. Next stitch the neck part usingcrosspiece . If you want , you can attach sleeves.
Next join two sides and the final thing is to fold and stitch the bottoms and sleeve.

How to cut and sew a armhole

Armhole is a very typical area where a perfect pattern and measurements help you to sew your sleeve perfectly.

If you find any difficulty in the armhole area, let me give you a detail description. In the above diagram

(measurements in inch)

C-D = chest loose= (chest/4)+1.5"
A-F = neck breadth=(chest/12)+.5"
F-E = shoulder breadth= 2.5 or 3.5 inches
E-E' =armhole length (join E to E')

Then draw two curves at the distance of one and two inches as shown in the pattern. First you need to mark chest loose then mark the neck breadth and the shoulder breadth , next mark a straight line from E to the chest loose line(CD) i.e E-E' , that gives you the armhole length and E'-D is armhole breadth.

Next thing is that you have to draw two curves at a distance of one inch and two inch. The outer curve is at a distance of two inch and thats the mark where you have to cut for the back part of the blouse. The inner curve which is at a distance of one inch is the mark for the front part and you have to cut the armhole at the inner curve. This is how you have to cut the armhole. I hope it helps you get a better understanding.

Basic Principles of Cutting in Dress Sewing - Lesson 1

Today we decided to add a new segment inClothing9, in this segment we teach you how to stitch or sew your dresses yourself - as eid event is coming and tailors stop taking more orders so now you prepare dress for eid, but before starting our first class we like to tell some basic rules of cutting because after measurement cutting is most important part of sewing, without learning the secrets of cutting we could not make a perfect dress.

Here are some tips / rules of cutting if you take in consideration then you will be able cut a dress like tailors.

1- If you are cutting fabric on floor then floor should be clean / plain and at least you should have 5ft by 2-1/2ft area or table of this size.if you see any stains on floor then mop the floor before cutting.

2- Scissor size should be at least 10", scissor should be clean and stainless.Scissor edges and tip should be sharp.

3- Check carefully that you drawn right measurement on fabric and fabric also set in correct way, never take less fabric then measurement

4- Before cutting the fabric properly iron the fabric to remove all wrinkles, use right temperature when ironing the fabric.

5- We know you people are in learning process so we suggest that you should mark all size on paper first and make graph or draft because we don't want that you waste the fabric just for the single mistake.

6- Always use tailor chalk for marking on fabric and never use ballpoints for marking.take some basic colors in tailor chalk like blue, white and red because these colors are visible on all shades of fabric.

7- When marking straight lines on fabric then you should use tri-square and for all other shapes use curve scale.

8- Always cut the fabric from where marks are drawn.

9- When you are cutting the fabric then take care that only right hand moving with scissor, do not move your body to right or left.

10- For less then 1 inch cutting use tip of scissor like button hole or side pocket.

11- For more then one inch cutting use the edges and take long stoke and move the scissor on lines drawn with chalk.

12- After cutting gather all the parts of dress and fold the fabric parts and put in a bag to avoid future problems.