HOW TO SEW IN SLEEVE CUFFS - button shirt -- part8 - 2nd sewing project

Tutorial: How to Sew a Cuff on a Sleeve

December 18, 2012 by onceuponasewingmachine 18 Comments

86

With Christmas just around the corner I needed a dress for M. I had been eyeing up the Goodship Dress for some time. The problem is the dress is sleeveless, and well we live in the Midwest. Even with the addition of a sweater I worried it was just too impractical. The good news is it was easy to add a sleeve to the dress, I made it a little more interesting by adding a coordinating cuff, I’ll run you through how to do that step-by-step.

While it had been my original intent to sew a red and black dress I didn’t find any fabric that really appealed to me, and I cut it too close to order any. I ended up defaulting to my stand by blue. In the end I think she will wear it more in this color palette. The fabric isn’t particularly heavy, so this will work into the Spring.

I only ran into one problem, two if you count the fact she wouldn’t stop twirling so I could take a picture, and that was the hem length. I should have double checked, but I didn’t. I sewed a 2T which I knew would be a little large on her. She is 2″ shorter than the 2T stated measurements, I took the hem up an extra inch and made some silly assumptions based on the cover photo for the pattern (pictured on a little bit older girls).

I don’t know why but when I sew without her around I always end up a ridiculously long dress. In total I cut 4″ of the bottom of this dress. Because I didn’t plan I did it after the dress was finished. My short cut left the dress and inset a lit wonky when you lay it flat, it’s fine on her. Lesson learned, again, double check the hem length.

Add a Cuffed Sleeve

I pulled out a pattern piece for a 2T sleeve I knew would work on her, you could also trace an existing top’s sleeve. Decided how tall you’re going to want your cuff to be.

Using your sleeve pattern as a template cut four cuffs out of your fabric and two out of interfacing.

I kept my seam allowance really minimal, but keep in mind when cutting your pieces to add in extra length if you need it.

This seam will be at the bottom of your sleeve. If you have created a cuff that flares out you want to sew across the narrow end.

You’ll want to finish these edges as they won’t be totally enclosed I used a pinking shears .

Sew your sleeves closed if you haven’t yet.

The right side of your cuff will be against the wrong side of your sleeve. Once you have the raw edges lined up sew around the sleeve and finish the edge.

*A sizing note: I did this with a 2T it is the smallest size I would attempt this application on. Your sleeve will be too small to fit on your free arm and any smaller would make it REALLY tough to complete this step with a closed seam.

Turn the cuff up and press. Your sleeve is ready to be set as normal! On the Goodship pattern I simply omitted the sleeve binding around the armhole and put in my sleeve.

That’s one thing checked off the list! Next up her brother’s outfit!

Have you ever added a cuff to a sleeve?

Simple Abaya Sewing details

How to make abaya – farasha

Posted on July 26, 2013 by thuriayaa

How to make abaya – farasha

May 21, 2011 //

0

Objective: A closed farasha abaya.
Supplies:
1. fabric (we will go over the amount later).  I recommend silk, linen, rayon/viscose, cotton, bamboo, or wool in some climates.  Synthetic fabrics are available but not breathable.
2. thread.  I recommend Gutermann or Mettler, but any good brand of thread will be fine.
3. hand or machine needles appropriate to the fabric you are using.
4. ruler (preferably a long one)
5. method of marking the cloth.  Some use a soap sliver, some a washable marker, some a tailor’s chalk.  Just make sure to test it on a scrap first.
6.scissors for cutting fabric.
7. bias tape for neckline and sleeve openings(optional).
8. sewing machine or serger (optional, remember that abayas were traditionally sewn by hand).
Procedure:
1. Measure yourself or have a friend measure you.  You need the following measurements:  nape of neck to floor (A), around the body at widest part (add 10″ or 40 cm, then divide this by two for B), and wristbone to wristbone across the back and shoulders (C).  Please remember that the widest part could be chest, hips, stomach, upper thighs, whatever.
Example: A sister is 44″ around at her widest part.  She adds 10″ to this to get 54″, which allows for a loose and modest garment.  She divides this by 2 and arrives at 27″ for B.
2.  Purchase fabric.  You need twice A (A is getting you from the shoulder to the floor, but you need both a front and a back).  Make sure the fabric you choose is wide enough for C or be prepared to use sleeves.
2. Wash and dry the fabric in the same way that you plan to treat the finished garment.
3. Cut the fabric according to the following diagram: Note that there is a slant in the shoulders in the picture.  The top of the wrist opening should be 11″ or 28 cm down from the shoulder if C is 152 cm or 60″ – if your C is shorter, adjust accordingly.   The wrist openings should measure about 15 cm or 6″.  Mark the bottom of the sleeve opening (I use a short snip into the fabric but it’s your choice).  In the sample I made,  there was not enough fabric to make the garment floor-length, so I am wearing pants underneath.
4. I suggest that you use the neck opening from a well-fitting garment as a guide for how to cut the neck.  Remember that if it is too small initially, you can enlarge it, but there is no way to shrink a too-large neckline.
5.  All sewing is done right sides together.  Sew one shoulder seam.
6.  Finish neckline with bias binding or some other method.  I finish it with a serger since the shayla covers the neckline.
7.  Sew the other shoulder seam.
8.  finish sleeve openings with bias binding or some other method.  If you are going to use attached sleeves, skip this step.
9.  sew up side seams to markings for sleeve openings (do not sew sleeves closed!).
10.  If you are attaching sleeves, make tubes of an appropriate length and width, hem them appropriately or double them so no hem is needed, and sew to openings.  You will notice that in the sample garment I made, the chiffon sleeves can be worn rolled up or down.
11.  try on garment and hem.

Posted in ISLAMIC SEWING | Tagged How to make abaya – farasha | 2 Comments | Edit

Make your own abaya! part1

Posted on July 25, 2013 by thuriayaa

Make your own abaya! part1

12022009

As the muttawa have been confiscating abayas with colour in Riyad, I would like to support my friends over there by posting some very simple abaya designs. Any idiot can make these
Besides, I’m getting a lot of search-engine terms on ”how to make abaya” and I don’t want to disappoint. For those visitors; don’t look too much at my other posts, you might be shocked…
So, three dead-easy abaya designs, very suitable for your own decorations, which will be in the next part. When everybody is happy and confident (and feeling like  wanting to wear something more fitnah-ish) we can try the more complicated design of the fitted abaya. That is the one I use for my wintercoats.
Materials:
One big advantage of making your own clothes is that you can use better and more healthy materials as the synthetic ones so often used for abayas nowadays. If your surroundings are not very hot, you can get away with a good cotton, or even better, a nice linen. Linen is ideal, it can retain far more moisture as cotton, therefore it will be feeling cool. In a really hot environment a light silk would be the best choice. Silk is usually very expensive, but that is a market mechanism. To buy in bulk, a decent silk doesn’t cost much more as a good cotton. So do shop around! Because of it’s luxury reputation, the shops put a much larger margin on it, making it more expensive. It might also be a good idea to buy a cheaper undyed material, and dye it in the color of your choice. With delicate materials it is best to try a small piece first. Dupioni silk is usually fairly cheap, but it looks a bit stiff. I do like the rough texture though, and you can get it in all sorts of colors, and in pretty changeant weaves too.

Fastenings:
You can use snaps, hooks, zippers, buttons or velcro, it is your own choice. Velcro may sound easy, but has spelled doom for many a pretty delicate shayla. I think the easiest option is buttons, and, instead of making the quite complicated buttonholes, make a loop, use a bit of nice ribbon, or cord. If you use a different color it will be a decorative feature.
Measurements of the patterns:
I can’t give exact measurements on these designs, you have to find out your own measurements. The measurements you need are in the drawing underneath. Instead of experimenting on some beautiful material, I suggest you buy some very cheap cloth, like an unbleached cotton, and stitch it loosely, or even just pin it together, try it on and make changes as you like. Once your try-out is to your liking, you unpin or pick out the stitching, and you can then use the pieces of material for your own perfectly fitting pattern.
If your pattern is precisely cut on your finished dress/abaya, make sure you allow an extra 1,5 cm for stitching and edging the material. I would not line an abaya, because you use it over your clothes in mostly hot countries, so to add even extra material would be even more suffocating. If you add a lining for effect you could choose to only line the bottom of your abaya or sleeves.

Above you see an example on how you could lay out the pattern on your material. lay out your pieces, and move them around until you have them placed as economically as possible. Note down how much material you need, handy to know, especially if you plan on buying an expensive material next time. Most cloth comes at a width of 1.50 meter. Some more exclusive materials are only 1,20 wide. In that case you can’t slip in the sleeves at the sides, and you need 2× your length, #5. And 1× your sleeve length, #2.

These are the measurements you need, work them out for yourself, and make a trial-abaya which you can unpick, or cut up, and use as your personal pattern. Draw the pattern on your real material with special tailor chalk. The sleeve on pattern #1 is a wide sleeve, but if you draw the line to the seam you get a fitted sleeve. This also shows how you can make variations, once you have a good pattern. I only use basic patterns myself, and chance them when drawing them with chalk on the material for the design of a specific garment I’m making.
Pattern #1 and #2 have an overlapping front. You can easily adapt #1 so it won’t overlap. If you use an overlapping front, you nee to put in at least two extra buttons or snaps on the inside, to keep the bottom layer of cloth from sagging down. On pattern #1 you can see three light doth which are sugestions for the inside buttons or snaps.
This second pattern is really a Japanese kimono. This is a véry simple pattern and should be well in reach of everybody who would like to try and make something. Simple forms are also a nice canvas for your own decorations.

With the kimono pattern, you don’t have to be careful with the shoulder seam, it’s supposed to slip from the shoulder a bit. You can make a much wider kimono, by cutting the front and back-panels for a much wider shoulder, and then create three folds which you stitch for about 25cm.

Pattern #3 is a very simple basic traditional butterfly design. Not handy in daily life, but very pretty. You can decorate the sleeve cuffs, or even make them of a different material. Like a Chinese brocade.
Once you have tried making one of these, experiment with different cuts, or try your hand at adding some nice decorations. In part 2 I will give some ideas for decorating your abaya. (or anything else)

Posted in ISLAMIC SEWING | Tagged Make your own abaya! part1 | Leave a comment |Edit

ISLAMIC SEWING – Butterfly / Shoulder Abaya

Posted on July 25, 2013 by thuriayaa

ISLAMIC SEWING – Butterfly / Shoulder Abaya

Make one at home  Butterfly/Shoulder Abaya

How many of our sisters living in the West has tried to find an everyday Abaya something comfortable and affordable.
yes we can buy from the store if we are lucky enough to have one within reach or our other option is to purchase online… all very well if you want something extra special but for everyday wear they are usually quite expensive and not usually in the styles or colours i really like , and very rarely do they fit properly i nearly always end up making alterations sooo……..

why not make your own.
I know many sisters enjoy enjoy sewing and by doing so we have the added benefits of saving money , having something that fits well and that you can embellish easily yourself making it an original creation if you so wish.


I also like the idea of being able to make my own from my own choice of fabricand in my favourite colour… what about a hijab and or niqab to match . EASY when you know how.

Butterfly / Shoulder Abaya

Butterfly/shoulder style Abaya

instructions

• With arms at the sides, have someone measure from one wrist to the other going across the back of the shoulders.
• Purchase twice this amount of 60″ inch wide fabric.
• Fold the left and right edges so that they meet in the center.
• Pin in several places to hold the fabric in place.
• Referring to the diagram: Cut a V-neck in the top layer of fabric.
• Stitch the seam line across the top.
• At the upper left and right corners, cut openings for your hands.
• The center seam of the abayah may be closed in several ways:
1. The easiest thing to do is simply stitch the entire seam all the way up to the neck.
2. You could also stitch from the bottom, half-way up, then insert a long zipper, or even several snaps or velcro.
• Cut the bottom of the abayah, large and round.
• Finish the neck opening, and cuffs with satin ribbon or bias binding.
• Hem the bottom.
Using an overlocker on all the seams gives a very professional finish.
don’t forget to leave an overlap of approximately 1 inch on each edge of center front seam if an open Abaya is required this is necessary for attaching buttons and button holes, zips or snap fasteners.
If a closed front Abaya is required then an overlap of approximately 1/2 is sufficient for the seam allowance necessary.
sequins,lace, beads, embroidery , ribbon or any other decoration can be added to the neckline, cuffs and about 4 ins from the hem.

If an open fronted Abaya is made decoration can carry down both sides of the front panel… where ever you wish.
It is entirely up to the individual in the choice of material, i particularly like the drape of crepe or silk.
Cotton is very durable… really anything that will fall and drape nicely is suitable.

Have fun sisters inshallah

please leave any comments as i would love to know how it worked out for you.. For the Arabic translation you can also contact me via my facebook … sisters only please.. 
http://www.facebook.com/fatma.muslima

Butterfly Abaya and Simple Abaya Sewing Tutorials

Butterfly Abaya Tutorial (2 different version)

Posted on July 27, 2013 by thuriayaa

I loovvee this abaya a lot, so I thought why not share the love?  It’s one of the easiest abayas to make, but because of how awesome it looks at the end, people assume it’s hard. The only tough part is that there is a lot of fabric…and I mean a lot of fabric, so that get’s overwhelming a bit a lot. But don’t worry, take deep breaths, be confident, and begin making your butterfly abaya =]
Now as you can see from the pictures I’ve made two different types of abayas(even though there’s 3 pics). The first two are the belted butterfly abayas and the last is the regular/plain one. All of ‘em are pretty awesome so I’ll be showing you guys how to do both inshaAllah.
There’s a bit of math before we start, so here goes:
The amount of fabric you’ll need will be based on your height. Have someone measure you from middle of your shoulder to your feet. If you are for example, 5 ft 4″ the length you’ll need is around 54″. The amount of fabric you’ll need is 54inches x 2=108″ or 3yards. (I suggest getting 3 and 1/4 yards or more.) So the formula is: your full length x two divided by 36 inches. (36 inches =1 yard)
Materials:
-Around 3-4 yards of fabric depending on your height. The width of the fabric must be atleast 58″ or 60″ so remember to ask for this width when buying fabric.
-1/4 yard contrasting fabric, only if you are making the belted abaya.
- 1 inch/2 inch Elastic
-Bias tape or you can also use left over fabric to make your own
-sewing machine and sewing stuff
Measurements:
-Have someone measure you from wrist to wrist, add an inch and a half to this and write this down.
-Have someone measure your full length from middle of your shoulder, over your bust down till your toes.
Let’s get started:
**Click the pics to make them bigger**
**Read everything through before making this**
Since there’s a lot of fabric involved I thought it’d be better to show you all how to make this abaya through paper instead of actual fabric.

1) This is just a reference to your fabric when it is laid flat.

2) Fold your fabric length wise. Use pins to secure the ends so that they do not move.

3) Fold your fabric width wise and secure all loose ends with pins. Now you should have two folded sides and two loose end sides.

4) Draw a shape like this on your fabric. (click the pic to make bigger) The width on top is half of your wrist-wrist measurement. Your arm opening should be around 7-8″. (For two of the belted abayas I had to extend the arm since my fabric wasn’t long enough, that’s why you see a different color on the arms.) Don’t worry if isn’t exactly like mine, it’s okay, the awesomeness of this abaya is that it gives you leeway for mistakes (and my abayas are far from perfect)

5) Now make the neckline. The width is 3″ and the depth is 1″. After this, say bismillah and start cutting. If you didn’t leave allowance for your sewing while you drew the shape, it’s okay, because you can just cut 0.5″ outside the lines and it’ll be okay.

6) Open up your entire abaya…it should look like this

7) Fold this in half now, make sure your arms match up. Use pins to stop the fabric from moving. Now measure out a 5.5″ deep neckline and cut away. This will be the front of your abaya.

Now if you are making a plain/regular butterfly abaya, pat yourself on the back, you are basically done cutting, move on to step 16.   If you are making a belted one move on to the next step.
Belted Butterfly Abaya:

This is the back of the belted abaya. As you can see the back is super loose and you can’t see any belt. Now how do we do this?

8) Measure your waist and divide this by two. This will be the part of the belt that actually shows, the elastic part will be hidden. Now, where you’ve marked your front neckline open your abaya and measure down 15″ from the fold, mark this down by drawing a line all the way across the fabric. Since we want the belt to be centered, find the center of this line, mark that down. Now take your half waist measurement and divide this in half. From the center of the line we just drew, mark your half-half waist measurements on each side. Take a min to decide how wide you want your belt to be. Let’s say 2.75″, so just draw a line 2.75″ on each side.

9) Take scrap fabric, and turn em into squares/rectangles. They should be around 4″ (if you used 2.75″ for your belt)

10) Turn the edges of squares over twice to hem each side. Press/iron in place. Then sew the square pieces to ensure there is no loose threads.

11) Mark 2.75″ on your sewn squares and draw a box. so like 2.75″ x 0.25″.

12) Match the boxes on each of your belt “openings”. pin to place and sew the 2.75″x0.25″ onto the abaya. After sewing it, cut the center, without cutting through the seams. fold your boxes to the inside of the abaya, press into place. Now top stitch to hold everything together. Now you have two holes for your belt!

13) To make the actual belt we need the contrasting fabric. Cut out a front belt half the size of your waist and make it 6″ wide. Then cut out a back belt a few inches more than your actual half waist measurement and make it 6″ wide. Fold each of these pieces so that they are now 3″ wide. Then sew the rough edges together to create two tubes. Turn them right side out and iron in place. Now take some elastic and put in inside the back belt. Sew a little bit, and then start stretching the elastic as you sew until you get to the end of the back belt.

14) Sew one side of the front and back belt pieces together.

15) Put it the belt through one of the holes you’ve made, so that the elastic part is on the inside. Now put the other part of the front belt through the other hole. Sew it onto the other side of the back belt piece. wohoo your belt piece is done!
*16) Sorry I don’t have any pictures for the actual sewing since I can’t sew paper  But trust me this part is super easy. You have the option of making the arm not so big…To do this you can take some elastic and make a casing as you hem the arm openings. Here is a tutorial on elastic casings. Just use a thin elastic piece. Or you can go the simpler route, just hem the arm openings w/o an elastic. Done! After this match up the arms together and sew each of the sides down. Then hem the bottom, by turning over the fabric twice. Lastly for your neckline do this with bias tape.
***Overlock/zigzag all the rough edges. Press everything in place.

the black belted butterfly abaya needs some ironing…i was a bit lazy to do so in the heat 
You are done! 
~Few tips: Since there is a lot of fabric, to keep your stitches from stretching don’t let the fabric drag as you sew. When you wear the belted abaya, put the belt of the abaya on first and then the sleeves.
I hope you guys find this tutorial to be helpful. If you have any questions do let me know.
Here is a link to my other sewing tutorials.
As always, hit the like/follow/share button if you enjoyed this. Have an awesome day everyone! 

Posted in ISLAMIC SEWING | Tagged Butterfly Abaya Tutorial (2 different version) | Leave a comment | Edit

How to Sew a Simple Caftan

Posted on July 26, 2013 by thuriayaa

How to Sew a Simple Caftan

---

• Measure from the nape of your neck down to the desired length: purchase twice this amount of 45″ wide fabric.
• Cut the fabric into two equal lengths.
• Reduce the width of both pieces to 35″.
• From the excess cut-away material, cut two rectangles, each measuring 6″ wide x 12″ long. Fold each in half, lengthwise, wrong sides together, press to crease the folded edge. Set these aside to be used on the neckline.
• Choose one length of fabric to be the front of the caftan. Spread it on the floor or tabletop, right side up, mark and cut the front neck opening as follows:
  • Place a pin in the center top edge of the fabric.
  • Measure down 8″ and mark with a pin.
  • Along the top edge, place pins 6″ to either side of the center pin.
  • Place pins 2″ to either side of the bottom pin.
  • Cut out the neck opening. Refer to diagram.
• Take the two folded rectangles and pin them to the neck opening, aligning raw edges. (There will be some excess at the top and bottom). Stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
• Turn the rectangles toward the center and overlap the bottom edges.
• Gather or pleat the excess fabric along the bottom of the neck opening and pin it to the overlapped edge of the neckline. Stitch.
• Trim away excess fabric from the rectangles along the top and bottom of the neckline.
• To complete the caftan:
  • Place the front of the caftan together with the back, right sides together. Stitch along the top.
  • Stitch the sides, leaving a 10″ opening on either side for the arms.
  • You may choose to cut a large curve bottom or leave it straight.
  • Hem the bottom.
  • Hem the armhole openings.
  • Hem the back neck opening.

---

---

---

 

---

Posted in ISLAMIC SEWING | Tagged How to Sew a Simple Caftan | Leave a comment |Edit

How to Sew a Shoulder-Style Abaya

Posted on July 26, 2013 by thuriayaa

How to Sew a Shoulder-Style Abaya

---

• With your arms at your sides, have someone measure from one wrist to the other going across the back of the shoulders.
• Purchase twice this amount of 60″ inch wide fabric.
• Fold the left and right edges so that they meet in the center.
• Pin in several places to hold the fabric in place.
• Referring to the diagram: Cut a V-neck in the top layer of fabric.
• Stitch the seam line across the top.
• At the upper left and right corners, cut openings for your hands.
• The center seam of the abayah may be closed in several ways:
  1. The easiest thing to do is simply stitch the entire seam all the way up to the neck.
  2. You could also stitch from the bottom, half-way up, then insert a long zipper, or even several snaps or velcro.
• Cut the bottom of the abayah, large and round.
• Finish the neck opening, and cuffs with satin ribbon or bias binding.
• Hem the bottom.

---

Posted in ISLAMIC SEWING | Tagged How to Sew a Shoulder-Style Abaya | Leave a comment | Edit

How to Sew a Niqab

Posted on July 26, 2013 by thuriayaa

How to Sew a Niqab

---

Simple Elastic Niqaab

• For a single layer niqaab: Cut a rectangle of fabric 13″x17″.
• Hem the two long sides and one short side.
• Fold the unhemmed sided under 1/4″, fold again 1/2″ and stitch close to the edge of the fold.
• Cut a length of 1/4″ wide elastic, long enough to go around your head.
• Pass the elastic through the 1/2″ hem of the niqaab.
• Overlap the two ends of the elastic and stitch together firmly using tiny zigzag stitches.
• **Note** Instead of elastic, ties could be added to either side of the niqaab for tying behind the head.

---

Headband Niqaab

• Cut a 4″ wide rectangle. long enough to go around your head like a band, with a couple of inches overlapping – or if you prefer, make the band long enough to tie behind your head.
• Press a 1/4″ inch hem along both long edges of the rectangle band. Fold the band in half, lengthwise, wrong sides (pressed hems) together.
• Cut a rectangle large enough to cover the face. Double if material is thin. Hem.
• Find the center of the band and the center of the face cover. Match.
• Pin the face cover in the slit of the band (i.e. between the folded hems)
• Leave an opening for the eyes.
• Sew the two pieces of the niqaab together. Sewing from one side of the eye opening out the the end and from the other side of the eye opening out to the end. Refer to diagram
• **Note** This seam allowance needs to be very slight, otherwise the space for the eyes will not stay open.
• Add snaps or velcro on the overlap of the headband, to close. (unless it was made long enough to tie back).

 

---

Niqaab with Eye Cover

• This is basically the same as the headband niqaab, except that a thin netting or mesh type fabric is stitched to the headband. This can stay atop the head for better visibility or flipped down to conceal the eyes.
• Cut the rectangle headband about 4″inches wide x the length needed to go around the head.
• Press a 1/4″ hem along both long edges of the headband.
• Fold the headband in half, lengthwise, wrong sides together.
• Stitch the face cover to the bottom folded edge of the headband (with a slight seam allowance) leaving an opening slit for the eyes.
• Pin the eye mesh into the open seam at the top of the headband, (i.e. between the folded hems), stitch the seam all the way along the headband.

 

---

Posted in How to Sew a Niqab, ISLAMIC SEWING | Tagged How to Sew a Niqab | Leave a comment | Edit

How to Sew a Chador – Prayer Outfit

Posted on July 26, 2013 by thuriayaa

How to Sew a Chador – Prayer Outfit

---

• This is a chador works great as a prayer outfit, using lightweight cotton material; or as a general everyday outfit, using lightweight silky polyester…or other fabric of your choice. Use 60″inch wide material.
• Measure from your forehead, down your back, to the floor. Purchase twice this amount of fabric.
• Fold fabric in half, right sides together, with fold at top.
• Use pins to mark points A-C, approximately 12″inches apart.
• To find the appropriate length for lines A-B and C-D. Measure from the top of your head down to your wrist.
• Place your hand at the edge of the fabric and pin on either side to mark the opening for your hands [Points B-E and D-F].
• Cut as indicated by the solid lines in the Diagram.
• Cut open the fold between A-C.
• Cut the bottom with a large smooth curve.
• The front of the chador needs to be cut shorter than the back. Cut only the top layer of fabric.
• Cut a slight curve between A-C, for a face opening. Cut only the top layer of fabric.
• Sew along lines A-B and C-D.
• Sew down from E-X and F-X. Leaving the opening for your hands. Fold out.
• Try on the chador and check the length. You should be able to pull the chador over your forehead to cover you hair.
• Hem the raw edges and opening as desired.
• You could attach a piece of elastic or binding to either side of the face (Points A-C) and tie these behind your head to prevent the chador from slipping.
• You could also make a triangular underscarf from the excess material to provide more coverage for the forehead.

---

---

Posted in ISLAMIC SEWING | Tagged How to Sew a Chador - Prayer Outfit | Leave a comment | Edit

How to Sew an Underscarf

Posted on July 26, 2013 by thuriayaa

How to Sew an Underscarf

---

Triangle Style

• Purchase .7m (1yd) of fabric.
• Cut a large square of fabric: 70cm (27″) square.
• Fold the square in half diagonally, wrong sides together,pin in several places to hold in place.
• Stitch across the front, approximately 2cm (1/2″) from the folded edge. You could use a decorative stitch in matching thread or a simple straight stitch.
• Stitch again 15cm (6″) back from the folded edge.
• Serge the raw edges or use a simple zig-zag stitch.

 

---

Bonnet Style

• Purchase .5m (1/2yd) of fabric. You will also need a piece of 1/4″wide elastic, 13cm (5″)long.
• Cut two rectangles with the following dimensions:
  • 34cm x 50cm [13"x19"] This is the front piece.
  • 28cm x 40cm [11"x16"] This is the back piece.
• Fold the larger rectangle in half (right sides together). Stitch around the edges leaving an opening for turning. Diagram One. Turn right side out, fold in the raw edges of the opening and stitch closed.
• Fold the smaller rectangle in half and repeat the same procedure as above. Diagram One.
• To stitch the front and back together Refer to Diagram Two.
  • Find the centre of the front and the center of the back, mark with a pin.
  • Pin the two pieces, seam edges together, matching centre points.
  • The easiest way to sew is from the centre, down to the end of the back piece, then from the centre again down to the other end. *Don’t fret about accuracy, just eyeball it.
• Place the piece of elastic along the folded edge of the back. Stretch it fit the width of the back piece. Hold the elastic in place at either end and stitch in place with tiny ziz-zag stitches. This will gather the back.
• See Side-View Diagram of completed scarf.
• Place the “bonnet” on your head and tie the two long end at the back of your neck.

 

---

Tube Style This style of scarf works best if the fabric is a bit stretchy.

• Purchase .5m (1/2yd) of fabric.
• Cut a rectangle 56cm x 48cm (22″x19″).
• Fold back one long edge (wrong sides together) 12cm (4.5″).Diagram One.
• Use a decorative stitch with matching thread: stitch 1/2″ away from the folded edge.
• Stitch along the first raw edge with a straight stitch.
• Hem the bottom raw edge as desired. 
• Fold in half, right sides together, Diagram Two.
• Stitch the vertical seam to form a tube. Fold out. 
• Wear this underscarf like a headband, with all of your hair in the “tube”.
• I usually pull it down around my neck, then pull it back so my hair is swept off my face and neck.

 

---

Posted in ISLAMIC SEWING | Tagged How to Sew an Underscarf | Leave a comment | Edit

Instructions for Sewing a Basic Khimar

Posted on July 26, 2013 by thuriayaa

Instructions for Sewing a Basic Khimar

---

• 115cm (45″) wide fabric will give you a khimar that’s anywhere from wrist-length to finger-tip length, depending on your height.
• Purchase 2.5m (3yards) of fabric.
  • Soft, lightweight, cotton material works best. If it’s a bit stretchy, that’s even better. Single-knits (a.k.a. “T-Shirt material”) work great. You could also use lightweight silky polyester.
• Fold in half, right sides together, with the fold at the top.
• If the material is silky, pin in several places to prevent shifting.
• Referring to the diagram: cut a large smooth curve from the bottom right to the top left corner. Points A-B.
  • Start by cutting a straight line, parallel to the raw edge, curve the line toward Point B, and end with a straight line, parallel to the left edge. This will ensure that the front and back of the khimar is straight and not in a “V” cut.
  • In order to make the front and back even, start Point “A”, about 10cm (4″) from the corner.
• Sew up the front of the khimar, from Points A-C. Leaving the rest open for your face.
• Try on the khimar. The face opening will probably need adjusting. It should fit snug under your chin.
• Hem the face opening and lower edges of the khimar as desired. 
• Make an underscarf.

---

---

Use white cotton fabric to make a comfortable prayer outfit. Follow the instructions above for making the khimar. Purchase 4m (4yd) of eyelet (or other cotton) lace. Stitch the lace along the entire bottom of the khimar, before sewing up the front. When you sew the front [from Points A-C] make the face opening small so that the khimar will cover your hair in the front and you won’t need to wear an underscarf.
Make a simple skirt to go with the khimar.

---

Posted in ISLAMIC SEWING | Tagged Instructions for Sewing a Basic Khimar | Leave a comment | Edit

Instructions for Sewing a One-Piece Open Abaya

Posted on July 26, 2013 by thuriayaa

Instructions for Sewing a One-Piece Open Abaya

---

• Measure yourself from one wrist to the other, going over your head. If you can find very wide fabric, you will need twice this amount (the width will be your height). For 45″ wide fabric, you will need four times this amount and lengthen as instructed in the next step.
• Cut the fabric in half and and attach them together along the long edges, so as to lengthen your fabric.

Broken line in Diagram 1 shows piece one and piece two.

• Once your fabric is wide enough, fold the two sides (right sides together) in so that they almost meet in the center. Leave a gap wide enough for your head. (10-12 inches). Stitch the seamline at the top from G to H. Fold out.
• Cut a small circular shape at the corner of each fold for your hands.
• Now, you have a VERY long abayah. Cut the bottom to a length that suits you. Cut a large curved bottom (from x to x in diagram 2).
• Trim the raw edges of the abayah with pre-packaged bias binding or ribbon.

*In the traditional method of abayah making, the abayahs were shortened from the inside without cutting the fabric.
To do that you would need the help of a friend. Put the abayah on the wrong way. With the abayah on your head, ask your friend to pin the fabric up for you. The pins would come near the line EF, this wouldn’t be a straight line.
This all is done by hand. And finally all the edges and the openings are crocheted. Abayahs used to be made from silk, nowadays mostly silky polyester, but always in black.

---

This pattern was first posted on the “SalafiSisters” mailing list.