Cotton Jersey Knit Solid Black

Cotton Jersey Knit Solid Black

This lightweight cotton jersey knit fabric features a smooth hand and and a 15% mechanical stretch. It is perfect for making t-shirts, loungewear, yoga pants and more!

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wikiHow to Make a Maxi Skirt

Four Parts:Taking Your MeasurementsPreparing the FabricCutting and Sewing the MaterialAdding a WaistbandQuestions and Answers

Maxi skirts bring a comfortable, free-spirited energy to any outfit. On top of that, they are also very easy to make as far as skirts go. Here's what you need to do.

Part1

Taking Your Measurements

1. 
   1
   Measure your hips. Use a soft tape measure to measure around the widest part of your hips.^[1]

   • Keep the tape measure parallel to the ground as you wrap it around your hips. Stick your thumb under the tape measure as you pull it taut to prevent yourself from accidentally making it too tight.
2. 
   2
   Take your waist measurement. Use a soft tape measure to measure around your waist, just a little above your waist or where your waistband would usually rest.

   • This may or may not be your natural waist, depending on how high you want the waistband of your skirt to come. Your natural waist is the skinniest part of your waist and usually crosses over your belly button.
   • Keep the tape measure parallel to the ground as you wrap it around your waist. Stick your thumb under the tape measure as you pull it taut to prevent yourself from accidentally making it too tight.
3. 
   3
   Determine your desired skirt length. Use a soft tape measure to measure the distance between your waist and your ankles, or whatever length you want for your maxi skirt.

   • Ankle-length is the standard length for maxi skirts, but you could make the skirt fall out anywhere between your lower-calf and ankle and still call it a maxi skirt.

Part2

Preparing the Fabric

1. 
   1
   Choose a knit fabric. To make a simple, comfortable, stretchy maxi skirt, you will need to choose a knit fabric with a bit of stretch to it.

   • Choose knit fabric that is dark and/or heavy enough to block out light. Otherwise, you might need to wear a slip beneath your skirt.
   • Choose a fabric with at least 25 to 40 percent stretch. In other words, if you cut 10 inches (25.4 cm), it should be able to stretch to a length of 12.5 to 14 inches (31.75 to 35.5 cm).
   • Preferably, the fabric should not have much four-way stretch, since this will cause the skirt to become longer as time goes on.
2. 
   2
   Purchase enough fabric and elastic. The exact amount of fabric and elastic you need for the skirt will vary based on your measurements.

   • Do not buy "no-roll" elastic, since this type of elastic cannot be sewn into the fabric.
   • The elastic should be about 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide.
   • You will probably need 1 ¹⁄₂ yards (1.4 m) to 2 yards (1.8 m) of fabric, but the exact amount will depend on your measurements. You should have enough fabric to wrap around you and enough to drape down to your desired length, at minimum. It's always recommended that you buy a little more fabric than you expect to use, just in case you make a mistake or in case you need more than you originally expected.
3. 
   3
   Wash and dry your material and elastic before using them. Doing so pre-shrinks your material and makes your skirt ready to wear once complete.

   • Follow the care instructions for your fabric and for the elastic to determine the proper way to wash them.

Part3

Cutting and Sewing the Material

1. 
   1
   Fold your fabric in half. Fold the fabric in half, paying careful attention to the grain of the knit so that the elasticity runs in the right direction.

   • Fold your fabric so that the right sides are facing each other and the wrong sides are facing out.
   • The grain of the knit fabric should run horizontally, or from side to side, rather than top to bottom.^[2]
2. 
   2
   Mark the top and bottom of the skirt. The top of your skirt should be half your waist measurement with an added 1 inch to 2 inches (2.5 cm to 5 cm) for a seam allowance.^[3] The bottom of your skirt should be a total of 12 to 13 inches (30.5 to 33 cm) wider than your full waist measurement, so with the fabric folded in half, the bottom should be marked out as being 6 to 6.5 (15.25 to 16.5 cm) longer than the top.

   • The top and bottom lines should be center-aligned with each other.
   • Make sure that the distance between the top and bottom marks matches your desired skirt length, plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) for a seam allowance.
   • Make your markings using a washable sewing pencil or piece of white chalk.
3. 
   3
   Sketch connecting lines between the top and bottom. These lines will become the sides of your skirt. They should flair out gently from the ends of the top line to the ends of the bottom line.

   • Note that if you make one of the sides correspond to the fold of your fabric, you can save yourself time by reducing the number of sides you will need to stitch up in half. If you cannot figure out how to create an angled line on the fold of the fabric, though, you can still cut the fabric out without either side being on the fold.
4. 
   4
   Cut your pieces out. Pin the two layers of fabric together and use sewing scissors to cut two funnel-shaped pieces of fabric out according to the pattern you just drew.

   • If you have a rotary cutter and cutting mat, use that instead for a more even, cleaner cut. Sewing scissors will work just fine in most cases, though.
   • Take special care as you cut the fabric to prevent it from being stretched as you cut. If the fabric gets stretched as it gets cut, the pieces could end up being distorted.
5. 
   5
   Stitch the pieces together along the sides. With the wrong sides still facing each other, sew along the angled lines, using roughly a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance on each side. Stitch up these sides completely from top to bottom.

   • Check the width of the waist at this point. If it is too large and too loose, pin off the excess and sew in a little more to take the waist in. If it is too small and too tight, remove some of the stitches and resew the seam to make the waist larger.
   • Use a straight stitch on your sewing machine. If sewing the skirt by hand, use a backstitch to provide greater strength.
6. 
   6
   Hem the bottom. Fold the bottom of the skirt up by about 1 inch (2.5 cm). Pin in place before sewing it down.

   • Use a straight stitch on your sewing machine. If sewing by hand, use a backstitch or special hem stitch, instead.
   • When you fold the bottom up, make sure that the raw edge is folded over the wrong side of the fabric and that you tack the hem up from this wrong side to hide the stitching better.

Part4

Adding a Waistband

1. 
   1
   Cut a piece of fabric for your waistband. The fabric should be the same length as the circumference of your waist, with an added seam allowance of 1 inch (2.5 cm).

   • Make sure that the grain of your waistband fabric goes in the same direction as the grain of your skirt.
   • The piece of fabric for your waistband should initially be about 10 inches (25.4 cm) tall. When folded in half, this will give you a waistband that is 5 inches (12.7 cm) tall.
2. 
   2
   Sew the elastic to this waistband fabric. Pin the elastic band to one side of the waistband fabric and sew a straight line down the lengthwise center to hold it in place.

   • The elastic should be about 1 inch (2.5 cm) shorter than your waist measurement, but it needs to be able to stretch to match your waist measurement. If it is the same exact length as your waist measurement, though, it will not have as much holding power, so you skirt may end up feeling loose.
   • As you sew the elastic, stretch it slightly so that it meets with the ends of the waistband fabric.
3. 
   3
   Fold the waistband fabric in half and stitch closed. Fold the top of the waistband fabric over so that it overlaps the elastic band you stitched to the lower half. Sew along the lengthwise raw edges to complete the waistband piece and stitch together the open ends to form a full, connected circular band.

   • When you fold the open ends together, fold the waistband in half with the wrong side facing out. Stitch the ends together with 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance on either side. When you turn the waistband right side out, this seam should be hidden.
4. 
   4
   Stitch the waistband to your skirt. Pin the waistband to the top wrong side of the skirt. Sew in place.

   • Match the waistband seam to one of the side seams on your skirt.
   • Pin the waistband so that the bottom right side edge of the waistband overlaps the top wrong side edge of the skirt. In other words, the waistband itself should be above the skirt and not on top of it.
   • Use a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance on either side.
5. 
   5
   Turn right-side-out. With the skirt right-side-out, flip the waistband down and over the top.

   • When you initially fold the skirt right-side-out, the wrong side of the waistband should be visible. By folding the waistband down and over the top edge of the skirt, you turn the waistband right-side-out, as well.
6. 
   6
   Wear the skirt out and about. This skirt is durable, comfortable, and fashionable. Best of all, with this step, your maxi skirt is also complete!

Reader Questions and Answers

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Things You'll Need

• Knit fabric
• Knit elastic band
• Measuring tape
• Fabric scissors
• Coordinating thread
• Sewing machine or sewing needle
• Sewing pins
• Sewing pencil or chalk

Sources and Citations

1. ↑ http://todayscreativeblog.net/how-to-make-a-maxi-skirt/
2. ↑ http://www.raegunramblings.com/2013/06/simple-maxi-skirt-tutorial.html
3. ↑ http://crazylittleprojects.com/2012/09/sew-your-own-maxi-skirt-its-easy.html

How to Make a Maxi Skirt

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How to Make a Maxi Skirt

Maxi skirts bring a comfortable, free-spirited energy to any outfit. On top of that, they are also very easy to make as far as skirts go. Here's what you need to do. Measure your hips. Use a soft tape measure to measure around the widest...

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Tips for Buying a Sewing Machine

Posted by Christine Haynes

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It is easy to get confused when shopping for a sewing machine; so many brands, features, price ranges, and more. It can be hard to know where to start! So let's break down some key elements to consider when looking for the best machine for you.

Brand:

There are a few main brands that you are going to see when you go browsing for a new machine: Singer, Brother, Janome, Kenmore, White, Pfaff, Husqvarna Viking, Bernina, Babylock, and Juki. When considering brand, you want to think about how the machine is constructed and where the machine is made. Many brands no longer use parts made from metal, instead relying upon plastic, causing the machines to not last quite as long. In terms of where the machine is manufactured, consider whether having a product created in America important to you. If it is, then seek out a US manufacturer with "Made in America" on the box. My personal favorite brand for a mid-range price point is the Janome family of machines. I've taught on them for many years and they are consistent, well built, and easy to use for all sewing levels. I personally sew on older Husqvarna Viking and Bernina machines, but these are much higher in price and are only best when you are sure you are ready to jump into a serious machine.

Features:

I always tell my students that sewing machines are a lot like cars. They all do the same thing, but they are not all the same. Think ahead to the kinds of projects you might be interested in doing and match a machine with your needs. Some have the option for stretch stitches, some have a one-step buttonhole, others come with specialty feet, and some have special quilting features. What you want to avoid doing is getting a machine so basic that you out grow it quickly. And on the other hand, do not get talked into more machine that you know you would want, like special digital features or programmable digital embroidery stitches. Think about what you want to use it for down the road and go in with a plan. If possible, take a friend with you that knows a thing or two about machines to help steer you straight when the sales people try to impress you with shiny features. And just like with a car, give every machine you are considering a test drive!

Price:

The reality is, quality sewing machines are not cheap. Again, think about it like a car. I cannot afford the most expensive car on the lot, but I also do not want to buy the cheapest thing out there and be bummed that I shot too low right out of the gate. You want to get the best machine for your money. Mid-range Janome machines will cost from $300-$600. You can find Singer, Brother, and White machines at big box shops for very little money. Heck, even Ikea has a sewing machine in their shops now! If you buy a $100 machine, just have realistic expectations on how well it will perform versus a more expensive machine. Machines made of plastic will be less precise in the sewing because it's hard to have precision movement with plastic. The more you spend, typically the better the end result.

Location:

I highly recommend buying a machine from your local sewing machine shop. Not only is it nice to support your community, but a local shop wants you to be happy and will be there for you when you need face-to-face support. If you purchase your machine on-line or at a big box store, there is no one to call or to go to when you have questions or need help. Also, your local shop will sell all the matching accessories and specialty feet for your brand, so you can do a quick drop-in when you need more bobbins instead of having to order them on-line and wait for them in the mail. Many small sewing centers also offer classes to get to know the features of your new machine, so check for that as well. Not sure which shop is better than another? Go to the website of the brand you are considering, click on the "find a dealer new you" link, and go to a certified dealer. They will have more options and will be more knowledgeable than just a random shop.

Just remember that the key is to get yourself a sewing machine, first and foremost. Determine your budget and get the best machine you can for the price, because having a basic machine is better than having no machine at all!

Check out what Craftsy quilting instructor Beth Ferrier has to say about choosing sewing machines.

Size Charts

Before selecting your pattern size from the Standard Body Measurement Chart (left), please read the following on how to correctly measure yourself.

How to Choose Your Correct Size:

1. Measure Your Body

Only basic body measurements are needed to determine your pattern type and size. Remember to wear proper undergarments and shoes when measuring. Also, make sure the tape measure is held snugly and firmly (not tightly) against your body and is always parallel to the floor for circumference measurements.

For Misses’ and Misses’ Petite:
BUST- Measure around the fullest part of bust and straight across back (1)
CHEST- around body above fullest part of bust (2)
Waist- around body at natural waistline (3)
HIP- around body at fullest part—usually 7-9" (18-23cm) below waist (4)
BACK WAIST LENGTH - from the most prominent bone at base of neck to the natural waistline (5)
HEIGHT- measure (without shoes) standing against a wall

For Junior, Women, Toddlers, Children and Girls:
Take the same measurements as above, except eliminate Chest measurement.

For Men and Boys:
NECKBAND - around base of neck or buy shirt pattern by ready-made size (1)
CHEST-around fullest part of chest (2)
WAIST- at natural waist over shirt (3)
HIP- at seat or fullest part of hip (4)
SHIRT SLEEVE - from back base of neck across shoulder around bend of elbow to wrist (5)
HEIGHT- measure (without shoes) standing against a wall

2. Select Your Size Category

Compare your height and body measurements to the measurement charts to select your size category.

3. Select Your Pattern Size

Pattern size is determined by your circumference (width) measurements. Again, refer to the Measurement Charts to select the size corresponding to the Bust, Waist and Hip measurements closest to your measurements. Here are some tips to help make your size selection easier:

• For Dresses, Blouses, Tops, Vests, Jackets, and Coats, select size to correspond with your Bust/Chest measurement. Adjust the Waist and/or Hip, if necessary. If there is more than 2"(5cm) difference between your Bust and Chest measurement, select pattern size by your chest measurement, because you will achieve a better fit through your shoulders, chest and upper back; adjust the Bust if necessary.
• For Skirts, Pants, Shorts, and Culottes, select size to correspond with your Waist measurement. Adjust the Hip, if necessary. If your Hips are much larger than your Waist, select the size closest to your Hip measurement and adjust the Waist.
• When purchasing a pattern that includes a Blouse, Jacket, Skirt and/or Pants, select size by your Bust/Chest measurement and adjust the Waist and/or Hips if necessary.
• If your measurements fall between two sizes, consider your bone structure. If you are thin and small-boned, choose the smaller of the two sizes. If you are larger boned, choose the larger size. Personal preference may also influence your size selection depending on whether you prefer a looser or a closer fit.
• For Maternity patterns, select according to your measurements before pregnancy.